Summary of Arduino – IR remote/ intervalometer for Nikon D80 DSLR
This article outlines a low-cost DIY solution for creating an intervalometer to perform time-lapse photography using a Nikon D80 DSLR. By leveraging an existing Arduino board and infrared (IR) emitter diodes, the author bypasses the need to purchase expensive commercial remotes. The project involves programming the Arduino to mimic the specific IR signal sequence required by Nikon cameras, utilizing the `micros()` function for precise timing control. Additionally, the guide notes that users may need to adjust their camera's "Remote on duration" setting in the custom menu to ensure compatibility with longer intervals.
Parts used in theArduino Nikon Intervalometer:
- Arduino board
- Infrared emitter diode
- Nikon D80 DSLR camera
I’m cheap and skint, yet I want to do timelapse photography with my Nikon D80 DSLR. Unfortnately that requires spending some cash on an intervalometer for time lapse photography which will set me back a sizeable chunk of cash. Or I could get a remote or get the trigger system then create a delay mechanism to do the timelapse. But again it’d cost a few quid to even get a remote…
Thankfully I already have an Arduino board and a bag of Infrared emitter diodes which I was wondering what I could use them for. So I had a quick scout round the interweb and saw various projects where people had written programs to allow Arduino to work as a TV remote etc.. and I stumbled up on this site: http://www.bigmike.it/ircontrol/ which listed the very IR timing sequence and frequency I would need to trigger my camera. I’m guessing you can find other sequences/ frequencies for other bits of hardware too.
There is no point in me writing up a circuit diagram or parts list for this as you just need an IR diode and an Arduino board. Oh and check that your camera has an Infrared remote port on it or else this is pointless!
Arduino Nikon Intervalometer Remote Code
You will see that basically we blink an IR LED for a set time, wait and repeat to create our signal. The only complicated bits are working out the delays to create the pulse cycle/ wave. Turns out Arduino isn’t so hot at measuring delays in Microseconds so we need to give it a hand keeping track using the micros() function – so we just create a counter to do this and specify an end time for it to count up to.
/*
LUCKYLARRY.CO.UK - IR Remote control for Nikon using Arduino
Mimics the infrared signal to trigger the remote for any Nikon camera
which can use the ML-L1 and ML-L3 remotes. Can be used as an intervalometer
for time lapse photography.
The IR sequence I used is originally taken from: http://www.bigmike.it/ircontrol/
You should be able to use my pulse methods to alter to suit other cameras/ hardware.
micros() is an Arduino function that calls the time in Microseconds since your program
first ran. Arduino doesn't reliably work with microseconds so we work our timings by
taking the current reading and then adding our delay on to the end of it rather than rely
on the in built timer.
*/
int pinIRLED = 13; // assign the Infrared emitter/ diode to pin 13
void setup() {
pinMode(pinIRLED, OUTPUT); // set the pin as an output
}
// sets the pulse of the IR signal.
void pulseON(int pulseTime) {
unsigned long endPulse = micros() + pulseTime; // create the microseconds to pulse for
while( micros() < endPulse) {
digitalWrite(pinIRLED, HIGH); // turn IR on
delayMicroseconds(13); // half the clock cycle for 38Khz (26.32×10-6s) - e.g. the 'on' part of our wave
digitalWrite(pinIRLED, LOW); // turn IR off
delayMicroseconds(13); // delay for the other half of the cycle to generate wave/ oscillation
}
}
void pulseOFF(unsigned long startDelay) {
unsigned long endDelay = micros() + startDelay; // create the microseconds to delay for
while(micros() < endDelay);
}
void takePicture() {
for (int i=0; i < 2; i++) {
pulseON(2000); // pulse for 2000 uS (Microseconds)
pulseOFF(27850); // turn pulse off for 27850 us
pulseON(390); // and so on
pulseOFF(1580);
pulseON(410);
pulseOFF(3580);
pulseON(400);
pulseOFF(63200);
} // loop the signal twice.
}
void loop() {
takePicture(); // take the picture
delay(5000); // delay in milliseconds which allows us to do timelapse photography - 1 second = 1000 milliseconds
}
Ok, so one other thing when using your camera and thats a quick modification to the remote timer, if like mine your infrared camera remote port is set to be active for less than a minute then you’ll need to edit the settings accordingly – just check your owner manual. For me it’s in the menu screen, custom setting menu, then option 30: Remote on duration.
Read more: Arduino – IR remote/ intervalometer for Nikon D80 DSLR
- How can I create a cheap intervalometer for my Nikon camera?
You can build one using an Arduino board and an infrared emitter diode to mimic the remote signal. - Does this project require a circuit diagram or complex wiring?
No, you only need an IR diode connected to an Arduino board without a detailed circuit diagram. - What function is used to handle precise timing delays in the code?
The code uses the micros() function to track time in microseconds since the program started. - Can this method be adapted for other cameras besides Nikon?
Yes, you can alter the pulse methods to suit other cameras or hardware if you find their IR sequences. - What should I do if my camera's IR port turns off before the shot is taken?
You must edit the Remote on duration setting in your camera's custom menu to extend the active time. - Where can I find the correct IR timing sequence for my device?
The author found the sequence on the website http://www.bigmike.it/ircontrol/. - How does the takePicture function trigger the camera?
It loops the IR pulse signal twice to ensure the camera receives the trigger command. - What is the default delay set between photos in the provided loop?
The code sets a 5000 millisecond delay, which equals 5 seconds between shots.

