Hacking Hex Bug Spider using arduino

For the Smart Cities exhibition in Leeds in a couple of weeks, we’ve been building a physical representation of an agent based simulation. Hex Bug SpidersΒ are relatively cheap hexapod robots that are controlled via an infra-red transmitter which has an A or B code so that you can control two simultaneously. The way it walks is referred to as the Jamius walking mechanism after its inventor (see:Β http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=is7x_atNl94Β ).

Hacking Hex Bug Spider using arduinoAfter taking the Hex Bug apart the construction is actually really good for a cheap toy. Both the hand held transmitter and the receiver in the robot are based around the AT8EB one chip microcontroller Β (Alpha Microelectronics Corp),Β with the robot itself also containing an ST1155A H Bridge driver. I’ve seen a lot of blog posts about hacking these spiders, but after trying to modify the robot’s control PCB to attach wires to the H Bridge driver directly (as in this blog post: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-Hexbug-Spider/), I’ve decided that it’s easier to replace all the electronics rather than hack the surface mount board. Out of the three spiders that I have, I’ve left two robots untouched while the third one has been disassembled. The logic behind this is to modify the IR transmitter and control two via an Arduino attached to a computer, while adding a ZigBee radio to the third for wireless control.

After examining the transmitter PCB, I noticed that there are exposed test points which can be used to attach wires for the forward, backward, left and right switches. I then discovered the following blog post doing almost exactly the same thing:

Hacking Hex Bug Spider using arduinoThe four test points for the forward, backward, left and right buttons are exposed, so it’s easy to solder on to them. I did have to very carefully remove some of the tape covering the button clickers first though. The A/B switch is very easy to solder to, but the + and – terminals from the battery are covered in hot melt glue which was very difficult to cut away. Then I had seven wires attached to the PCB which I routed through the A/B switch hole on the front case and re-assembled the transmitter. Reading from left to right, the white arrows identify the functions as follows: GND, Forward, +3.3V, Backward, (A/B code bottom with left above it), Right.

 

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