Rave Rover – Mobile Dance Stage
Step 1: Starting the Build
Step 2: Cutting Parts
From the CAD models, I was able to cut out the exact frame so that everything slides together and locks. I was also able to cut the top out of very thin ABS plastic sheet, which will give the ’rounded square’ look once the LEDs are installed and lit up.
Step 3: Fitting the floor
Step 4: Getting LEDs ready
Step 5: Installing the LEDs
The have to be wired all in series, so each row has to follow the row before it, and the ‘flow’ has to be correct, else you’ll not be able to light up some of the LEDs. The way these LEDs work is by sending them a serial string of data, the first LED takes it’s data off the top, and then sends the rest of the packet down the line, basically bit shifting the data stream. You can’t individually address the LEDs, but knowing where they are in the data stream, you can change their data in the stream itself.
Step 6: Adding the Frame
You can see how the slots in the rails we cut out are perfect for running the wires between the boxes.
Step 7: LED Color Check and Testing
For driving the LEDs, we’re using a simple Arduino by outputting data out of the SPI channel. Most of what you see is just random algorithms to make sure the colors are in working order and all of the pixels are working.
The top piece is white translucent plastic, works as a great diffuse panel as one is needed!
Step 8: Gathering More Materials
We picked up all of the aluminum (1x1x1/8″ wall) tubing, and cut it up to the sizes that we needed for the frames. While doing this we also picked up all of the pneumatic components which I’ll get into later in the build and explain WHY we need air cylinders on this project 🙂
Step 9: Frame Building
The next few steps will show the construction of these aluminum frames.
The original idea was to have all of the aluminum to be welded, but running out of time it was decided to use L brackets to bolt everything together. This seemed to be extremely strong and held together very well!
Step 10: Getting frames to fit…
In the video you can see how hard it is to control the air, I am using a standard blow nozzle and just shooting air into the input to make sure the frames will move and not be locked together. In the final version, I fixed the flow by adding in a flow restrictor on the solenoid input, make going up and down very smooth.
Step 11: Mounting Components
(2) Drive motors with 10″ Wheels (From Electric Wheel chair)
Custom 10″ Subwoofer Box
Amplifier for Subwoofer
Car Radio for powering mids/highs and taking computer input
(2) 12v 35Ah SLA Batteries
Air buffer tank
Electronics (Solenoid, drive speed controllers, Arduino, power switch, etc)
Now if you remember, the Main Stage frame was 28 x 44.5 inches, this means that the drive train frame was smaller, around 25×42″ where all of this stuff has to fit. What are we waiting for?! Lets get to it!
We start installing by necessity. Obviously we need to drive around, so the motors and wheels get mounted first! Next is the batteries (can’t forget those)..and then the next biggest item which was the subwoofer.
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