Microcontrolled Farm Equipment




Modified BaleScoop(for picking hay bales out of the field) from manual levers to arduino controlled functions.
This eliminates the need for 3 sets of hydraulic hoses to only one set and operator can focus more on where they are going rather then controling the implement. This is set up for a “Field Mode” and a Travel Mode”, and has 3 switched to still control the implment manually to unload the bales or align bales
Microcontrolled Farm Equipment




Parts Needed
Arduino UNO
Screw 2 pull springs
terminal shield for Arduino
8 channel Relay board
10vlt Regulator
Enclosure(some type of box to cover electronics)
Cat 5 Cable
Cat 5 coupler
Micro switches(you can use all limit switches)
Limit Switches
(3) toggle switches mom/on/mom
Toggle switch on/off/on
Screw terminal block
female rv plug
2 prong plug
plastic flex
14 gauge wire
3 directional solenoid vales with manifold
self drilling/tapping screws
female spade connectors
bolts &nuts (sizes 4-40 and 6-32)
2″x 2′ strap steel
1/2″ rod
UHMW 1/4 think 4″ wide 8″ long
small screws
5/16 all thread 8″ long and 4 nuts
2 5/16 bolts 1″ long
heat shrink
1 1/2 angle iron 16″ Long
2 hinges 2″ wide x 4″ long
3/8 key stock 3″ long

Tools
wire stripper/crimper
leatherman 😉
dikes
small screwdrives
solder gun and solder
Drill and drill bits
sharpie
5/16 tap
cutting lube
grinder and gear
welder and gear
channellocks
open end wrenches 7/8-1 1/8
Torch
Pipe wrench
Fishtape
5/16 nut driver
Jig Saw
Bench vise

Step 1: Safety First

Always be sure to use correct PPE(Person protective equipment) especially with the grinder and welder. As of right now you will only ever get two eyes, there is no Instructable “yet” for a working human eye. You may have more then 2 fingers but I’d like to keep all mine, it just makes life easier. And yet again only 2 ears make sure to wear earplugs when grinding. Always be aware of what and who is around you. And remember that soldering iron is hot and so is what you just welded

Step 2: Mounting Boards

Mounting Boards

Best way I found to mounting the boards in the encloser was to trace the outline and the holes with a sharpie. Place the bolts through and put nuts on them, place the board on the bolts and put nuts on top to fasten. Tighten down

Step 3: Mounting the cat5 coupler

Trace the coupler, drill it out and finish cutting it out with your handy leatherman, glue in place, The cat5 coupler is for the switches on the BaleScoop. The wires go to— 2 for the swinging hitch(opened and closed), 2 for the Loader(up and down), 1 for bed down, 1 for bale in Loader and 1 to count the second to the last bale, and the last is 5vlt to complete the citcuit.

Step 4: Toggle Switches & Shield

Drill 4 holes on the cover of the encloser for the switches, 3 will be for controlling the balescoop and the other to set the “Mode”
Install The screw Shield, I found this one on ebay, You can build the voltage regulator right on this shield if you want. (I ruined mine shield that’s why it is not on it) Install the screw sheild to the Arduino(plug it in) You will need 10k resistors to pull the pins to ground that will be used for switches, solder these to the sheild
Wire 7 of the cat5 wires to the shield terminal output pins and solder the other ends to your switches. These switches are in the circuit to pull the relays to ground(ON). Make sure they are soldered to the correct pins. 2 wires and a ground coming into 1 switch (You will need to jumper the ground to all the switches) and 2 wires going out of the switch to the relay board(One switch controls 2 relays).
Wire the “Mode” switch to the terminal sheild and solder the wires to the switch, 2 outer from the input pins and the center to the 5vlt

Step 5: Relay Board

Install female connectors on end of cat5 cables from “control switches” and a ground and 5vlt from the Arduino sheild
Now make a jumper for the 12vlt that will go to the relay switches. Lay the wire down and mark ever place you need a wire. Use a exacto knife to remove insulation, solder  wires going down and tape up so you don’t have bare wires

Step 6: Voltage Regulator

Not going to tell you how to build a regulator because there is way better ones on here then what i built. But i will tell you what I used
LM317T regulatorm 1uf capacitor,   220ohm resistor and a 10k potentiometer so I could dial in my voltage. The website i learned this from is http://www.reuk.co.uk/Using-The-LM317T-To-Regulate-Voltage.htm
Be sure to fuse the power coming in. I put a fuse holder in the encloser so I know it’s always protected, I am useing a 10amp fuse

Step 7: Wireing the plugs

Drill two holes in the bottom of encloser, one small for 2 wires and a large one for 7 wires. The small hole is for the power coming into the box and the large is going out. Be sure to splice the 12vlt coming in one to the relay jumper and the other to the voltage regulator, the ground also gets jumped to the revulator but the other goes out the box through the large hole, Color code or mark your wires so you know where they go.
oped the Rv plug up slide the houseing on the wires and start wireing then end peice up, Be sure to set them pairs side my side so you can remeber what is what. tape ever 6″ down the wire to hold wires more like a cord, wrap wires in
Use a 2 prong plug for the power coming in. It;s simple easy to unplug and once its wires you cant short it or plug it in wrong

Step 8: Mounting Manifold

Mark the length on the manifold on the 4 strap, cut off and center punch for the holes, Drill the holes 3 sizes smaller then 5/16 this allows a better bite for your bolts, When tapping out holes turn intill it gets tight and then turn backwards, use this back and forth motion so you do not break your tap. Be sure to use lube when tapping and drilling
Set the 4 inch plate on the hitch 30”s back and weld in place. Bolt the manifold in place

 

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